The Shooting
Star Casino and hotel is located in Mahomen, MN located 36 miles north of
Detroit Lakes, MN (population 8600), the nearest significant town, 65 miles
from the Fargo-Morehead area on the Minnesota-North Dakota border, 80 miles
from St.Cloud, MN, 200 miles from Winnipeg and 240 miles from
Minneapolis-St.Paul, MN. In other words, the Shooting Star Casino is on the White Earth Indian Reservation a long way
from any population center, in an isolated area of the state.
We arrived about
3pm on a Monday afternoon for a conference being held in an adjacent conference building
and staying in a hotel attached to the casino. Lots of conferences are held in
casinos because they offer cheap sleeping room rates and meeting rooms at low
or in some cases, no charges as long as a minimum number of sleeping rooms are
booked.
The parking lot
in front of the hotel and casino was almost full when we arrived. We wonder where in the
world all these people come from, arriving at the White Earth Indian
Reservation in the middle of an unpopulated forested and farming area of
Northwest Minnesota? Astounding! Most of
the license plates are from Minnesota, but some are from North and South
Dakota, Iowa, Wisconsin and Manitoba. A
large charter bus was parked near the entrance of the hotel when we arrived
which had recently unloaded its passengers.
The town of Mahomen,
with a population of 1,200 and is about 6 by 12 blocks on Minnesota highway
59. It has few shops and nearly no entertainment other than the gambling casino. There is a bar in town for
every 5 by 5 block area. Mahomen has a small coffee shop called the Red Apple,
the Wild Rice Lounge, a Subway restaurant, Supervalue grocery store, and the
Lucky 7 liquor store, a hardware store, a bank, the Maytag Laundromat, the Lean
To bar, a small community hospital and clinic and a small community college. Mahomen, MN is a difficult place to live six
months out of the year, with average low temperature in January of -8 degrees F
and more than one inch of snow falls on half of the days in January. Winter low temperatures of -18 to -24 are not
uncommon. The reservation is sparsely
populated (8.4 people per square mile) and includes some farms and scattered
individual homes. That compares with 571 people per square mile in Hennepin
County where Minneapolis is located). Many people who work at the casino live
in Detroit lakes or nearby towns from 35-50 miles away.
There is not
much to do in Mahomen but gamble or drink, though in good weather fishing and hunting is possible. This isn’t Las Vegas with swanky restuarants
and glittery non-stop shows with dancers and bands. The casino offers entertainment Friday or
Saturday evening, such as Bill Engvall (a country-western comedian), Creedance
Clearwater Revival or Williams & Ree (who describe themselves as “The Indian and the White
Guy", a singing comedy team). Show tickets
are from $20 to $60 so obviously few local people are able to attend.
After checking
into our hotel room, we wandered around to check out the place. The casino is connected by a short hallway to
another building where the conference we were attending was being held. As soon as we reached the hallway leading to the casino we are met by the strong smell of cigarette smoke. The casino has colorful neon lights on nearly
every vertical surface. By mid-afternoon,
around half of the gambling machines were occupied with people intently staring
at the displays and punching buttons as the symbols “spun,” emulating
old-fashioned slot machines making synthesized whirring sounds and occasional
electronic “dings.” The machines are set up shoulder to shoulder across several large rooms the size of a small
auditorium in a typical conference center. As far as I could tell, most people
gambling are Anglos.
Gamblers appear to be mostly older people, 40
years old and older. Most people appear
to be heavy smokers, alternately inhaling their cigarettes or flicking ashes in
their ashtrays next to each machine, and punching the keys on the gambling machines. The air is very dense with cigarette smoke. For
a non-smoker the smoke level is very noxious.
The three restaurants in the complex are only accessible by walking
through the casino. One offers “fine
dining,” the second informal table service and the third a buffet. There is no effort to separate the smoking
area of the casino from the restaurants.
A study by an independent group in California reported that smoke-filled
Indian casinos have up to 50 times more
cancer causing particles in the air than highways and city streets
clogged with diesel trucks in rush hour traffic. Indian Casinos are exempt from
state and federal laws regarding policies regulating smoking in public places,
because they are a sovereign nation and regulate their own health and
environmental policies. Among Native
American plains tribes, about 50% of adults are smokers who have a very high
rate of health problems associated with smoking.
Almost no
talking occurs among casino patrons. It
seems eerie to see a couple hundred people seated nearly shoulder-to-shoulder
staring at screens, with no one interacting.
On one side of the casino is a long curved bar down a few steps below
the level of the gambling machines.
Though it’s still early in the day, a half dozen people are sipping
their beers or drinks and watching the gamblers. Others are seated at nearby tables chatting, drinking
and smoking. Most amazingly, some people were already gambling by 8am when we came down for breakfast the next morning, and by 6 or 7pm all of the machines are occupied, with their lights blinking and machines producing pinball-like sounds beeping and ringing sounds.
For some reason
this activity is called gaming, I suppose for the same reasons AK-47s assault
rifles are euphemistically called fire-arms instead of guns or weapons. Gaming used to refer to playing games, like
rummy or Monopoly or croquet. Now
“gaming” is only used to refer to gambling, and most commonly gambling in Indian casinos.
As we left the
casino another long distance chartered bus was unloading its passengers in front
of the hotel entrance, mostly middle aged and older people with white hair,
some with canes with difficulty walking being helped down the steps, including a
couple with oxygen tubes inserted in their nostrils. They were all heading for the casino. Several
police and uniformed security officers are visible in the lobby and walking
through the casino. A security guard
walks the hotel hallways with a drug dog sniffing at guest room doors,
apparently smelling for marihuana or other volatile drugs. Who would come all the way to this incredibly
isolated place to use drugs? I guess
some people must, at least one of the officers said some people do.
Many of the
people employed by the casino, from the front desk, to buffet dining room, house cleaning staff and maintenance people,
appear to be Native American. This is
the largest employer in this region, which is one of the poorest
counties in the state. No one here seems
to know what portion of the gambling proceeds are returned to the White Earth
Reservation for health, education and other human services, though local people
seem to believe it is most of the net profits. There is little evidence of such facilities in Mahomen other than the Community College, though the village of White Earth some miles away has a child development center supported by gambling money which provides services for young children. There is a history of scandals in some Indian casinos, in which the
tribal leadership had skimmed off a substantial percentage of the proceeds for their
own use.
Because Indian
casinos, which exist in 28 states in the US, are on the property of sovereign
nations, as a visitor you lose your rights as a US citizen once on the
reservation property. If you have any
grievance against the casino (e.g. think you were cheated) or if your property
is stolen from your room or you slip and fall on slippery floor and break a
leg, you have no recourse through US law enforcement or courts; You must seek
redress through the tribal criminal justice or court system, which may not be
very helpful.
The word Mahomen
is Ojibwe for Wild Rice, which continues to be another source of income in the area. When
one considers the understandable pride of the Objibwe Anishinaabe
community in their traditions and values (honesty,
humility, truth, wisdom, love, respect and bravery), and their ties to the
land, it is difficult to
reconcile those traditions with gambling as the primary income source. Some people
sardonically believe gambling casinos are Native American retribution for the
abuses and crimes of White people against their ancestors. Perhaps so, but it is a high price to pay.